Nigerian Dwarf Breed Standard - Understanding ADGA Linear Appraisal
Understanding Breed Faults & Breeding for genetic improvement
One thing I MUST state before you read any farther:
NO Goat is PERFECT
Every goat will have it's own strength's and weaknesses. Many of these are genetic. When breeding for genetic improvement the idea is to breed goat's that will IMPROVE the quality of the offspring. As a breeder you must decide what traits are most important to you. We all have some faults we are willing to work with and some that we are not.
I have added MANY of my own PERSONAL OPTIONS about certain structural categories on this page! ALL of my personal OPINIONS are in this color.
Understanding Breed Faults & Breeding for genetic improvement
One thing I MUST state before you read any farther:
NO Goat is PERFECT
Every goat will have it's own strength's and weaknesses. Many of these are genetic. When breeding for genetic improvement the idea is to breed goat's that will IMPROVE the quality of the offspring. As a breeder you must decide what traits are most important to you. We all have some faults we are willing to work with and some that we are not.
I have added MANY of my own PERSONAL OPTIONS about certain structural categories on this page! ALL of my personal OPINIONS are in this color.
Nigerian Dwarf Breed Standard
"The Nigerian Dwarf is a miniature breed of dairy goat originating in West Africa and developed in the United States. The balanced proportions of the Nigerian Dwarf give it the appearance of the larger breeds of dairy goats, but does stand no more than 22.5″ (57 cm) and bucks no more than 23.5″ (60 cm). Any color or combination of colors is acceptable. The medium length ears are erect and alert. The face is either straight or dished, and the hair is short and fine." ~ ADGA Guidebook
"The Nigerian Dwarf is a miniature breed of dairy goat originating in West Africa and developed in the United States. The balanced proportions of the Nigerian Dwarf give it the appearance of the larger breeds of dairy goats, but does stand no more than 22.5″ (57 cm) and bucks no more than 23.5″ (60 cm). Any color or combination of colors is acceptable. The medium length ears are erect and alert. The face is either straight or dished, and the hair is short and fine." ~ ADGA Guidebook
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At several points in this article you will see reference to ADGA's linear scale such as this one. Notice the point values given from 1 - 50. These are NOT "Scores" per se. Their is NOT an "IDEAL". These scores provide a LINEAR SCALE. Where does each goat fall on a specific TRAIT on a SCALE of 1 - 50. Most of the time you want to avoid the "extremes" of any trait and aim for "middle" of the scale but NOT ALWAYS. These numbers are used so on a genetic level you can pair goat's together without ever having to LOOK at them in person. For example: (If you have a frail weak doe who scores a 17 in strength... ideally you will want to BREED her to a buck who is stronger. By looking at the numbers you can find a buck who has scored 25 - 40. In a PERFECT world the kids would then likely be stronger then their mother but remember genetics come from mom and dad.
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"Head & Breed Characteristics : clean-cut and balanced in length, width and depth; broad muzzle with full nostrils; well-sculpted, alert eyes; strong jaw with angular lean junction to throat; erect ears." ~ ADGA Scorecard
Faults, Defects and Disqualifications: Roman Nose, Pendulous Ears, Total Blindness, Crooked faces, Under or Overshot Jaw
On an ADGA Score Card Head & Breed Characteristics count as 5 points out of 100 for a Senior doe, 10 out of 100 for a Junior Doe and 8 out of 100 for a Buck. This means while Head and Breed Characteristics may help define the breed of goat on a point value they are some of the minor traits.
Faults, Defects and Disqualifications: Roman Nose, Pendulous Ears, Total Blindness, Crooked faces, Under or Overshot Jaw
On an ADGA Score Card Head & Breed Characteristics count as 5 points out of 100 for a Senior doe, 10 out of 100 for a Junior Doe and 8 out of 100 for a Buck. This means while Head and Breed Characteristics may help define the breed of goat on a point value they are some of the minor traits.
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This doe has a very well balanced face, broad muzzle, prominent (well sculpted) eyes and Erect Ears.
This doe just has such a beautiful face but she just isn't a very heavy milker. Would you keep her in your breeding program if milk production was your main goal? 
I sometimes hear POLLED goats have a lower ear set. While a large majority of polled goats have seen have a less then ideal ear set, I have found that is not always true. Both of these goats are polled. Notice the brown goat has a more ideal ear set. He is POLLED! I have noticed that my polled goats with more floppy off set ears tend to produce horned kids that still have floppy, offset ears.
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Notice the EAR SET on this doe? Her ears are more floppy. While this is a VERY minor cosmetic issue, by breed definition her ears should be more erect.
This doe could use better ear set but otherwise is is OUTSTANDING. She's also one of my heaviest milekrs. Would you remover her from your breeding program because her ears are a little floppy? Please note: HEAT plays a small part in ear set. Here in south Texas, on our really hot 95+ degree days, it's not uncommon to see ears hang a little lower then usual. 
Sometimes kids are born with ears that flop, curl, bend or otherwise don't stand straight up. This is from being cramped inside mom's belly. Most of those ears straighten up by 1-2 weeks of age.
Pretty little erect ears:
Undesirable Ear Sets for the Nigerian Dwarf Breed:
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Minor Fault! Look right in the middle of the face. Between the nose and the eyes. See the bump? Somewhat of a "Roman Nose"! This is a minor breed fault.
Aside from this "bump" on the nose this doe is otherwise exquisite! Scoring VEVE 90 at the age of 9.5 years old. Would you keep her in your breeding program with this fault? 
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Very nice side profile on this doe's face. Erect Ears. Notice the straightness to her face? Per breed standard: "Faces may be either straight or dished".
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Front End Assembly - prominent withers arched to point of shoulder with shoulder blade, point of shoulder, and point of elbow set tightly and smoothly against the chest wall both while at rest and in motion; deep and wide into the chest floor with moderate strength of brisket.
"Out at the Elbow" is a hard fault to SEE in a PICTURE. This is one you almost need to see in person This is another fault that can "come and go" depending on how the goat is standing or moving. You will not see it 100% of the time but that doesn't mean it's not there!! Notice :"point of elbow set tightly and smoothly against the chest wall both while at rest and in motion." If a goat has an elbow set "tight and smoothly against the chest wall" if will NOT pop out from "time to time" depending on how they stand. I know some people try to hide it by how they walk or set up the goat. This is one of those traits if you walk your goat carefully in the show ring you can "hide" it. If you set the goat up right, you can hide it. Who are we kidding? It's still there and it's still passed on to the offspring. If you have a goat who's "Out a the Elbow" do your best to only breed them to goat's who are very correct in Front End Assembly!
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Look at the point of Elbow in the circle. See it pop off the chest wall?
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She took a few steps and look, it's GONE!
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Just kidding, this is a goat who is out at the elbow!
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Standing nicely, and look!?!?! Can't see it!
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Here it is again....
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See that Giant "V" shaped gap from her front leg to her chest wall? She has loose elbows.
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Legs, Pasterns & Feet - bone flat and strong through leading to smooth, free motion ; front legs with clean knees, straight, wide apart and squarly placed; rear legs wide apart and straight from the rear and well angulated in side profile though the stifle to cleanly molded hocks, nearly perpendicular from hock to to strong, yet flexible pastern of medium length; strong feet with tight toes pointed directly forward; deep heels with sole nearly uniform in depth from toe to heel. " ~ ADGA Breed Standard
On an ADGA Score Card Legs, Pasterns & Feet count as a total of 15 points for a Senior Doe, 23 points for a Junior Doe & 25 points for bucks
On an ADGA Score Card Legs, Pasterns & Feet count as a total of 15 points for a Senior Doe, 23 points for a Junior Doe & 25 points for bucks
Toes and Feet: Since you don't milk the feet of a dairy goat they are generally considered minor in compared to many other aspects of the goat. However, bad feet, legs and toes may slow the goat down over time. A goat that doesn't keep up with the herd is at a higher risk of being picked off by predators. They are also less likely to be able to forage long distances and use pasture as well as a goat with good feet. You may see them favoring the hay feeder or laying down more then other goats.
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Some of the BEST FRONT TOES I've ever seen on this 4 year old doe.
Nice and tight! Remember you want "tight toes pointed directly forward". 
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Some of the WORST SPLAYED FRONT TOES I've ever seen on this 4 year old doe.
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Front Legs Viewed from the Side:
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Very nice front legs on this 3 year old doe. The legs and feet form a straight line down from the tallest point of shoulders
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This doe is over at the knee and down in her front pasterns. While I would not be concerned to see this in an aged goat (8 years and older) It's not favorable to see on a young, 3 year old. doe. This typically only gets worse with age.
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Hyper Extended Knees :
This issue may or may not be a conformation fault. There is a LOT of debate on what causes it but without a doubt it often progresses to a painful condition for the goat. Goats with this type of condition may eventually need to be euthanized when the pain becomes a problem. Some goats seem to progress quickly while others may live a relatively normal life.
The legs come down straight but buckle back at the knee. Goats with this condition will often stretch out the leg before trying to walk and frequently limp on the leg.
Both of these goats came to me with this condition so I have no idea how long they had it before I got them.
I have been told by show judges and and an appraiser that it is highly speculated this is caused by genetics. It is seen with some frequency in the Nigerian breed. However it seems to be very sporadic and unpredictable when it will show up. I have had some breeders tell me they have seen it run in family lines but skipping around generations.
Some speculated that this is caused by a vitamin mineral deficiency. Copper? Selenium? A few breeders claim to have fixed the condition with proper minerals and time.
Both of these goats were started on regular Copper Bolus, Bo-Se injections and Replamin Gel weekly. After a year of correct minerals the doe on the right has not improved. At least she is not showing the signs of extreme pain at this point. She still walks on her legs and rarely limps The buck on the left, it's too soon to tell if vitamins and minerals will help.
It is also speculated this condition could be caused or made worse by injury.
Is it possible some goats are genetically more prone to mineral deficiencies then others?
This issue may or may not be a conformation fault. There is a LOT of debate on what causes it but without a doubt it often progresses to a painful condition for the goat. Goats with this type of condition may eventually need to be euthanized when the pain becomes a problem. Some goats seem to progress quickly while others may live a relatively normal life.
The legs come down straight but buckle back at the knee. Goats with this condition will often stretch out the leg before trying to walk and frequently limp on the leg.
Both of these goats came to me with this condition so I have no idea how long they had it before I got them.
I have been told by show judges and and an appraiser that it is highly speculated this is caused by genetics. It is seen with some frequency in the Nigerian breed. However it seems to be very sporadic and unpredictable when it will show up. I have had some breeders tell me they have seen it run in family lines but skipping around generations.
Some speculated that this is caused by a vitamin mineral deficiency. Copper? Selenium? A few breeders claim to have fixed the condition with proper minerals and time.
Both of these goats were started on regular Copper Bolus, Bo-Se injections and Replamin Gel weekly. After a year of correct minerals the doe on the right has not improved. At least she is not showing the signs of extreme pain at this point. She still walks on her legs and rarely limps The buck on the left, it's too soon to tell if vitamins and minerals will help.
It is also speculated this condition could be caused or made worse by injury.
Is it possible some goats are genetically more prone to mineral deficiencies then others?
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REAR LEGS SIDE VIEW: By ADGA scorecard a goat should be "well angulated in side profile through the stifle to cleanly molded hocks".
The degree of angularity varies greatly from goat to goat and breeder to breeder. Some breeders prefer overly angular goats and some don't. While either is fine most prefer to avoid goat's that are overly posty (straight in the rear leg).
The degree of angularity varies greatly from goat to goat and breeder to breeder. Some breeders prefer overly angular goats and some don't. While either is fine most prefer to avoid goat's that are overly posty (straight in the rear leg).
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When looking at rear leg angularity I like to see the goat standing in a NATURAL position.
All pictures below are goat's standing NATURALLY without any "help" from a handler. When a goat is "set up" like you would for the show ring angularity to the rear legs can be over emphasized by tucking the goat's back back down. Another thing to consider is kids are born with more angularity then they will mature into. A kid that is overly angular will usually mature out about middle of the score card. I kid that is lacking angularity will usually only get straighter in the rear legs with age. |
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This doe is EXTREMELY "Posty" in the rear legs. She is lacking the "well angulated in side profile".
Her rear legs are almost a STRAIGHT LINE! Having owned this goat for a short while I can tell you those "Posty" rear legs REALLY slowed her down. she was always very last when following the herd. Sadly, when I moved to her a new home she was killed by a dog.
(Slow moving goat = easy for a predator to pick off) |
Here is a buck who's getting to be a little too posty for my preference.
While still exceptable I would be more like to see more angularity.
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This doe is "well angulated in side profile".
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A VERY well angulated young buck.
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Sickle Hocked
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"Posty" or "Post Legged"
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Near Ideal
"nearly perpendicular from hock to to strong, yet flexible pastern". 
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REAR LEGS VIEWED FROM BEHIND: "rear legs wide apart and straight"
Diagram taken from : Oregon 4-H Dairy and Dairy Goat Evaluation and Judging
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Not only is this little buck narrow in the rear he is "cow hocked". Meaning his hocks are angled in and toes pointed out!
This poor little buck was so bad I ended up castrating just because of his rear legs. He came with an outstanding pedigree but rear legs are a big deal for me!
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I very nice example of "rear legs wide apart and straight"
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"Strength"
From the ADGA Linear Guide Book:
"The width and depth of the chest, the width of the muzzle, and the substance of bone in the goat’s front end are used to determine the strength of the goat. The range for this trait is from extremely narrow and frail to extremely wide and strong. Width and strength is associated with the likelihood the goat can sustain high production and good general health. Strength is measured from weakness (less than 20 points) to strength (more than 30
points). The intermediate range is from 20 to 30 points."
From the ADGA Linear Guide Book:
"The width and depth of the chest, the width of the muzzle, and the substance of bone in the goat’s front end are used to determine the strength of the goat. The range for this trait is from extremely narrow and frail to extremely wide and strong. Width and strength is associated with the likelihood the goat can sustain high production and good general health. Strength is measured from weakness (less than 20 points) to strength (more than 30
points). The intermediate range is from 20 to 30 points."
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This is one of the most "powerful" does I have owned. She scored a "32" in strength.
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One of the least "powerful" does I have owed. She scored a "24" in strength. When you look at this goat head on you will notice she has a very slender face/muzzle, she's narrow in the chest floor and her whole body is slender.
Noticed how narrow she is on the left but not on the right? This can vary greatly depending on how she stands. Pictures were taken a few seconds apart! Personally I have never seen a "strong" doe fluctuate like this. A strong/powerful doe will always look strong. A frail/narrow goat can sometimes seem to change depending on how she stands. However, looking at the narrow muzzle and slender body structure you can see if even when she tries to stand "wide".
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NEITHER OF THESE DOES ARE PREGNANT!
The doe on the left is a very nicely conditioned doe with a HEALTHY rumen, GREAT spring of rib and GREAT body capacity! A doe really NEEDS these 3 things to have the potential to be a HEAVY, long term milker. The doe on the right is Slab Sided. Or what our appraiser called a "Hot Dog Goat". While she is in good body condition she just lacks the spring of rib and body capacity to withstand the demands of high milk production. This is NOT from health or feed issues. It doesn't matter how much you feed her she will never have the body capacity of the doe on the left. If you make her really fat she will still be shaped like a Hot Dog. A very FAT hot dog. |
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Depth of Barrel:
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Same two does pictured above
Again, neither doe is pregnant! You want a goat with increasing depth from front to rear as you look from the side. That large body capacity means more room for food and for kid. . The doe on the left is not fat she has outstanding depth and width. When you run your hands over her you can feel her ribs easily. |
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Examples of Faults:
Diagram taken from : Oregon 4-H Dairy and Dairy Goat Evaluation and Judging
Diagram taken from : Oregon 4-H Dairy and Dairy Goat Evaluation and Judging
UDDERS!!!
Mammary system on a DAIRY goat almost needs it's own page! Mammary system alone counts for a 35 points on the ADGA score card out of 100. A DAIRY animal must have a mammary system that can support years of milking. While some novice may think height, width, attachment and teat placement seem trival their IS a reason behind these ideals. A dairy animal's udder undergoes a lot of of stress both from kids nursing and from being milked. A sub-par udder is more likely to get injured or permanently damaged.
Mammary system on a DAIRY goat almost needs it's own page! Mammary system alone counts for a 35 points on the ADGA score card out of 100. A DAIRY animal must have a mammary system that can support years of milking. While some novice may think height, width, attachment and teat placement seem trival their IS a reason behind these ideals. A dairy animal's udder undergoes a lot of of stress both from kids nursing and from being milked. A sub-par udder is more likely to get injured or permanently damaged.
UDDERS: The #1 thing I can say on udders is watch them when they are full of milk and your goat is running... Does the udder swing side to side? Does it swing and bump into her legs? THAT IS NOT GOOD! Most commonly these "Swinging" udders are lacking ATTACHMENTS that hold them in place. An udder should be held FIRMLY agaist the goat's body with the least amount of movement possible when the goat is moving around. It should he SOCKED ON all the way around. No wiggle. No giggle. GLUED on to her body.
Rear Udder: "capacious, high, wide, and arched into the escutcheon; uniformly wide and deep to the floor; moderately curved in side profile without protruding beyond the vulva."
Rear Udder Width/Attachment : The area of skin where the udder attaches to the body helps to hold the udder snug and secure against the body. An udder that is not attached to the body swings around and hangs low. It is more likely to get injured when running, jumping or walking over brush.
Escutcheon Arch: The arch between the rear legs should be wide like an upside down U. Not narrow like an upside down V. A U shaped escutcheon leaves room for a wide, well attached udder. Picture an udder like a bowling ball. You just can't shove a round ball into a V shaped space. U shaped escutcheons offer space for more MILK and more space for secure attachments to support that milk.
Escutcheon Arch: The arch between the rear legs should be wide like an upside down U. Not narrow like an upside down V. A U shaped escutcheon leaves room for a wide, well attached udder. Picture an udder like a bowling ball. You just can't shove a round ball into a V shaped space. U shaped escutcheons offer space for more MILK and more space for secure attachments to support that milk.
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Two VERY poorly attached udders.
Think how uncomfortable it must be for a doe full of milk to be running with her udder slinging side to side smacking into her own legs. If you have ever watched a doe with a poorly attached udder you will notice she runs slower and more cautiously then a doe with a snugly attached udder. Sure, maybe it doesn't affect YOU the PERSON but I firmly believe we should not be carelessly breeding animals that are more prone to pain or injury. The black line shows the area of attachment that is supporting the weight of the udder. 
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A beautiful WIDE rear udder arch with a WELL attached rear udder. The black line shows not only the shape but the area of attachment. All the skin that is holding that beautiful udder securely to the body.
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Rear Udder Height: The distance from the top of the udder to the tip of the vulva.
The area where the shadow hits this does udder is the actual top of her udder. This doe's udder is just horrible. (This is PRE-KIDDING before all her milk came in!) I owned her for a short time and her udder was so poorly attached and hung so low she would step on it when she would stand up. That would leave deep painful cuts on her udder. It hung so low she would drag it thru cactus and brush. Her kids would struggle to nurse because her udder was too low to the ground for them to grab on to the teat. This was such a PAINFUL udder for this doe! Nice pet but NOT a goat that should be bred and in milk. Period! This didn't happen in 1 generation or 2. This is many generations of BAD breeding with no consideration for the animals produced from those breedings! |
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The does below show outstanding rear udder height.
This is the height from the top of the udder to the tip of the Vulva.
This is the height from the top of the udder to the tip of the Vulva.
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I'm going to ad a personal opinion or piece of advice depending on how you want to take it. I'm sure it will not set well with some breeders exposing their dirty little secret but it is a personal pet peeve!
Don't judge an udder picture if you can't see the tip of the Vulva in the picture!!! Some breeders will cry "Modesty". "We don't want to upset people who view the picture." "It's gross to show their 'lady parts' in a picture." I've heard a LOT of excuses.
I'm going to be BLUNT here... YOU CAN'T JUDGE REAR UDDER HEIGHT IF YOU CAN'T SEE THE VULVA! SOME very poor udders can look a LOT better if you crop out the vulva. I don't care what a breeder tells me I would never buy from a breeder who hides something as importation as rear udder height! Personally, when I see an udder picture cropped this way, I ASSUME they are hiding something!
The pictures below are the same goat. Taken on the same lactation.
Don't judge an udder picture if you can't see the tip of the Vulva in the picture!!! Some breeders will cry "Modesty". "We don't want to upset people who view the picture." "It's gross to show their 'lady parts' in a picture." I've heard a LOT of excuses.
I'm going to be BLUNT here... YOU CAN'T JUDGE REAR UDDER HEIGHT IF YOU CAN'T SEE THE VULVA! SOME very poor udders can look a LOT better if you crop out the vulva. I don't care what a breeder tells me I would never buy from a breeder who hides something as importation as rear udder height! Personally, when I see an udder picture cropped this way, I ASSUME they are hiding something!
The pictures below are the same goat. Taken on the same lactation.
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Change the camera angle and do some cropping...SHADY BUSINESS if you as me! This happens a LOT more then you would expect! |
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Teat Placement:
"Teats – uniform size and of medium length and diameter in proportion to capacity of udder, cylindrical in shape, pointed nearly straight down or slightly forward, and situated two/thirds of the distance from the medial suspensory ligament on the floor of each udder-half to the side, indicating ease of milking." - ADGA Score Card
Teats are only worth 4 points on the ADGA score card. Pretty minor in the grand scheme of things. However, they play a major roll in the ease of milking. In my opinion, a hard to milk dairy goat is a very poor quality dairy goat.
Teats too little are hard or impossible to hand milk. Teats too large are hard for kids to nurse from.
Teats that point out towards the rear legs are hard to milk and hard for kids to nurse from.
"Teats – uniform size and of medium length and diameter in proportion to capacity of udder, cylindrical in shape, pointed nearly straight down or slightly forward, and situated two/thirds of the distance from the medial suspensory ligament on the floor of each udder-half to the side, indicating ease of milking." - ADGA Score Card
Teats are only worth 4 points on the ADGA score card. Pretty minor in the grand scheme of things. However, they play a major roll in the ease of milking. In my opinion, a hard to milk dairy goat is a very poor quality dairy goat.
Teats too little are hard or impossible to hand milk. Teats too large are hard for kids to nurse from.
Teats that point out towards the rear legs are hard to milk and hard for kids to nurse from.
Incorrect
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Here are 2 yearling First Fresheners
Both have nice high rear udders both have a decent medial showing for being such newly fresh does. However, the black doe on the left has a incorrect teat placement. They "wing out" or "point out". They point into her leg. This placement may appear to improve some with additional freshenings as more milk fills in around the medal and pulls the teats down however, the teats placement on the udder will always be towards the outside of the udder and not underneath the goat. The doe on the right has a very lovely teat placement! |
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How do udders change over time?
Here is a doe as a yearling and as a 3 year old. Notice the yearling has a high, wide well attached udder with teats that point straight down? As a 3 year old her udder is just stunning! With more maturity and capacity she has a lovely medical division. Her teats could be ever so slightly more centered on the udder floor but overall this is a near perfect udder if you ask me! This doe scored VEEE '91' on appraisal as a 3 year old. |
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Yearlings First Fresheners
Both of these yearling does kidded in the middle of hot summer and are raising single kids. I'm not expecting a lot out of them at this point but you can already tell which doe has the more correct teats. The black doe on the left is seriously lacking in medial division and her teats wing out. The White doe has a more correct medial for her age and more correct teat placement. However, it does look like the black doe has more width of attachment across the rear udder. |
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Using Linear Appraisal to Breed for genetic Improvement
From the ADGA website:
"The ADGA linear appraisal system evaluates individual type traits that affect structural and functional durability in order to take full advantage of the potential for genetic improvement through selection. ADGA’s linear system:
- Evaluates each animal & trait individually
- Evaluates each trait from one observed biological extreme to the other
- Includes traits that have economic importance and are at a minimum, moderately heritable
- Applied uniformly
Producers have the information to make a more accurate selection of breeding stock than ever before. Because of this, the responsibility and the opportunity for breed improvement are directly upon breeders."
One of the BEST Links I can provide is the ADGA Linear Guide Book. So much information I have compiled here is from this Guide Book:
http://adga.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/LA_BOOKLET.pdf
http://adga.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/LA_BOOKLET.pdf
