Caring for your Dwarf Goat
While Dwarf Goats make very rewarding pets they also have several requirements that are essential for there heath! The information we provide here is what we consider BASIC care on OUR farm. Every farm is different, so what works for us may not work for you. If you have purchased a goat from me please feel free to contact me at any time with questions!
Other Goat FRIENDS: Goat's do NOT do well alone! They need to be in a small herd. (Even 2 castrated boys together are fine!) It is easier on the goat if you bring in 2 from the same place because they already know each other. Young kids can be introduced pretty easily if they don't know each other however, the older they get the longer it can take them to be friends! Introducing 2 adults can take weeks or months and sometimes they never get along. If you take a baby home alone without a friend you can expect it to scream and cry for several days to a week. It will likely jump and try to find a way to escape back to it's herd. Nature tells goats they MUST be with their herd because if they are separated they can easily be picked off by predators. More then once I have seen baby goats totally shut down and stop eating when taken home without a friend. It is possible, although not common, for a baby to die from this stress. Chickens, Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, Horses or any other animal BESIDES a goat does not make an ideal companion. They do not have the same behaviors or communicate the same way. Yes, goats can coexist with some of these animals but they do not substitute for another goats. Goats form a strong bond with their herd and have a very specific herd order. They head butt as a way of play and communication. Your chicken, cat, dog or rabbit will not appreciate being head butt or rammed when your goat is trying to "talk" or "play" with them. I have heard many stories of horses stepping on or kicking dwarf goats. (Remember your baby will be about 10lbs at 8 weeks old and around 60lbs as an adult!)
Now is when people say: "but I will be his friend." I guess you have to be around goats to fully understand how they work. A goat NEVER leaves the herd. Not even to go to work or go to the store. Goat's sleep together as a group for protection and warmth. They do just about everything together as a herd. When a goat is away from it's herd it becomes very stressed and upset. A stressed goat is at risk of a weakened immune system that can lead to many different health problems. As humans, we will never be able to be with the goat 100% of the time. A baby goat can be cute as a house pet but what about a 60lb adult with rock hard hooves that will jump on any counter, stove, table or chair? Goat's are like deer, they can jump on or over just about anything if they really want to. A goat kept inside will need access to fresh hay 24/7. Goats need to eat often to keep their rumin functioning well. They usually only sleep or rest for a few hours at at time and when left to a natural routine can be found eating at all hours of the night.
Shelter: At the very least your goat will need a 3 sided shelter. Goats are happy to spend most of the time out in the yard but they need a dry place to escape the rain, summer heat, and cold winds. Goat's who can not avoid rain will likely succumb to pneumonia. A wet goat is NOT a happy goat. Goats shelters should also be well ventilated to prevent the build up of ammonia. We put hay down in our shelters
Fencing: Goats will test any fence. A secure, strong fence is essential (yes, even for dwarf goats). If a dwarf goat really wants to they can jump a 3-4 ft fence. Goats will naturally rub on fences especially during spring and fall when they are shedding. This can weaken fences so check them often for wear and tear. Goats are also very smart. I have had goats learn to open chain link gates or jump on top of objects to get over a fence. If a goat can get it's head into something, it will try to push through it.
Trimming Hooves: Hooves should be trimmed every 4-6 weeks. Do NOT neglect hooves. We have found trimming hooves every 3-4 weeks makes the job a LOT easier. If you neglect hooves you will end up with very badly deformed hooves and a goat that has trouble walking. It is so much easier to prevent problems then try to correct them. Always check your goats hooves after a rain because mud and dirt gets trapped in there! This can lead to hoof rot. I purchased a Hoof Plane from Hoegger's Goat Supply. and it is the BEST hoof trimming tool I have found! I try to touch up hooves ever 2 weeks. This keeps the amount of time spent trimming to a minimal. If you buy a goat from my I will show you how to trim hooves.
Purchase the Hoof Plane HERE
Worming: All kids leave here already started on a deworming regime. We give a coccidia preventative at 3 & 6 weeks of age and dewormed with Valbazen at weaning. Young goats are much more susceptible to the effects of parasites, especially when under stress from weaning. We worm our adults about 2 times per year but this need varies greatly from farm to farm. What works for us may not work for you. We judge each goat by eyelid color, body condition, age, and breeding status. For stomach worms our adults wormer of choice is INJECTABLE Cydectin given ORALLY as a drench. Cydectin does NOT treat coccidia or tapeworms. For babies I prefer to deworm with Valbazen because of their small size. For Coccidia prevention on kids we use toltrazuril. I have never had to treat an adult for coccidia.
Vaccinating: All baby goats will be vaccinated with CD&T vaccine at 4 weeks and 7 weeks of age. This will seal their immunity for 1 year. They will then need a booster shot yearly. I highly recommend all goats are vaccinated with the CD&T vaccine. We have also started vaccinating our adults with the Pasturella vaccine. Kids here get their 1st boosters at 6 & 7 months old. Then yearly after that.
Hay: All goats should have access to fresh hay, no matter how much grass you have. Goats are ruminants so long fiber hay is essential to there digestion.
Here we mainly feed a good quality Coastal (Bermuda) hay to our adults. Timothy, Sudan, Johnson Grass or Haygrazer can also be offered.
Kids are started on Coastal Hay because it has a finer steam although they really like the Sudan too!
A goats digestive system is very sensitive. NEVER feed a goat hay that has gotten wet! Wet hay molds very quickly. When a goat ingests even a small amount of mold they are susceptible listeria. If not caught very quickly, listeria is fatal.
Grain: Goats are actually very picky animals with sensitive stomachs. Goats have a 4 chamber stomach called a rumin that can easily be upset by new foods. Whenever you switch foods do so gradually by mixing in the new food with their current food.
The amount and kind of grain is dependent on many things. Here, we do not feed grain to Dry (not in milk) or Open (Not Pregnant) does. A goats main diet should be high quality hay and grass. Our babies are left to grow up with their mom and will nurse on mom through her whole lactation (usually 6-10 months). We end up with really well grown yearlings when we do this.
Once a doe is bred we will slowly start introducing grain to her diet 4-6 weeks BEFORE her DUE DATE. This is when the babies really start to grow and the mom needs the extra energy for babies and milk. Feeding pregnant does grain early in pregnancy will increase the size of the kids, sometimes too much. I'm especially careful with first time moms. I slowly increase the grain ration the weeks prior to kidding so that by the time she kids she is on what I consider to be a full milking ration. We feed all of our milkers grain mix 2-3 times per day.
MILKING DOE GRAIN RATION: My personal mix for MILKING does is a mix of Sweet Dairy Goat Feed, Pelleted Dairy Goat Feed, Alfalfa Pellets, Oats, Black Oil Sunflower seeds, Calf Manna and beat pulp. Alfalfa pellets make up 50% of this mix because milking goats NEED lots of calcium. I mix this together into a large bin. Each doe is feed individually on the milk stand 1-3 times per day. Right after kidding some moms need to eat 3X per day. Later in lactation when we move to once a day milking they only eat once per day.
BUCK GRAIN RATION: Our bucks are feed a grain mix once per day during fall and winter. This is when they are in rutt, breeding most of the girls and using a lot of energy. We feed our bucks a feed mix of Medicated Goat Grain (with Ammonioum Choloride) mixed with Alfalfa pellets. I mix the grain and alfalfa pellets 50/50. During spring and summer I really decrease the amount of grain they get since they spend most of the time laying around. They rely mainly on good quality hay.
FEEDING WETHERS: Due to their higher risk of Urinary Calculi (Urine Stores) I don't recommend giving wethers grain. Their main diet should be good quality grass hay and browse. If you absoulty feel you MUST give him grain keep it in moderation! (When grass is limited grain may be necessary in cold weather.) Think about 1/2 cup per day for a grown Nigerian Dwarf. If your going to feed a grain I recommend a mix similar to what I feed my bucks. Medicated Goat Grain (with ammonium chloride) mixed with Alfalfa pellets. Remember, feed grain mix with MODERATION! Ideally you want them to get a Calcium : Phosphorus ration of 2:1. Grains are High in Phosphorus and low in calcium. Alfalfa help to increase the calcium intake.
To prevent UC offer males Ammonium Chloride daily in either their food or minerals. SEE BELOW FOR MORE INFO!
Minerals: Goats NEED minerals. I can't stress that enough! (See chart below for mineral related health issues) Without them they will slowly start to lose condition and decline in health. Fresh loose goat minerals should be available at all times. I use a brand called Sweetlix Meat Maker Loose Goat Minerals. Jupe Mills carries the sweetlix brand. If you are unable to find it most stores carry a brand called ManaPro Loose Goat minerals. This is ONLY available in a small 8lb bag. Purina also makes a loose goat mineral but I don't recommend it unless your cant find anything else. Purina brand has a LOT of salt in it meaning your goats are not getting enough of the other minerals they need. While you can offer the minerals blocks IN ADDITION to the loose minerals they are NOT a substitute for loose minerals. Goats are unable to lick enough off the block in one setting to get anywhere near the daily requirement. Goats require much larger amounts of copper then other animals. This is one thing we have struggled with on our Farm. We have found that the goats do not like the minerals if they become moist. If we have a lot of humidity in our air I put the minerals away at night. This helps to keep them fresh.
I choose to add dried Kelp powder to our goats mineral mix. You don't necessarily need it but it is a nice addition that adds important trace minerals to their diet. Our goats REALLY like it and would eat it free choice if I left it out. I add 1lb per 25lbs of goat minerals. You can purchase dried kelp for around $10 a pound on Amazon.com.
On our farm we have found that loose minerals alone are not enough. We also copper bolus our goats every 6 months, offer a selenium supplement every 3 months and offer black oil sunflower seeds (additional selenium). Every farm is different so what works for us may not work for you.
Ammonium Chloride: Female goats do not need ammonium chloride but ALL male goats should receive it. It will not hurt the females but it helps to prevent urinary stones in males. The cheapest place to buy it is Hoegger's Goat Supply. You mix it in with the food or minerals. (I mix it in with the minerals.) I have never had a problem with urinary stones in our buck but I use it to be safe. It's much cheaper then having to get a vet involved or loosing your goat. (*ALL castrated males should be receiving it as they run the highest risk of urinary stones.)
Click here for the DIRECT LINK to purchase it.
Baking Soda: Plan old baking soda that you can buy from the grocery store should be available to your goats. Goats are prone to bloat. It can come on suddenly for unknown reasons Change in food and over eating are often associated with bloat. If your goat bloats, it is an emergency! We provide baking soda free choice next to their minerals. If a goat gets an upset stomach or the ph in there rumin is off they will naturally eat it. This alone can stop bloat before it starts. .
Copper Bolus: We use a product called Copasure TWICE yearly on all of our goats. Most of Texas is deficient in copper and we find our goats really need it. Goats who are deficient in copper tend to have coarse, dry curly hair. Eventually they will develop what is called “fish tail”. This is where the fur on the tip of the tail falls out and their tail hair will appear to “split”. Darker goats (especially black goats) will start to turn a redish/rust color. This usually starts on the hind legs and slowly becomes more obvious. Severely deficient goats will eventually develop patchy fur . Copasure capsules should be opened up and given at a rate of 1 gram per 22lbs. You can OVER DOSE on copper. You must break open the bolus and weigh it out. If your goat weighs 22lbs you give 1 gram. 44Lbs you give 2 grams. And so on. The most effective way to give it is put it in a small gel capsule and give it to them in a drench. You can sprinkle it on their food but I find this less effective. When the copper rods get chewed they do not work properly.
(*SEE BELOW FOR PHOTOS OF COPPER DEFICIENCY*)
*Click HERE for a tutorial on copper bolusing*
**Click HERE for a direct link to purchase Goat Specific Copper Bolues**
Selenium: Many areas of Texas are deficient in Selenium. (Another very important mineral for goats.) We feed black oil sunflower seeds as part of our food ration to help increase the amount of selenium our goats receive. We also give our goats a dose of Bo-Se twice a year. Bo-Se is a RX med that you must get from a vet. If you don't have injectable Bo-Se you can also give a Selenium/Vit E gel every couple of months. The gel can be ordered online from Jeffers. We have not had to deal with a selenium deficiency since we started using Bo-Se.
FOR EVEN MORE GOAT CARE INFORMATION I HIGHLY RECOMMEND CHECKING OUT THIS SITE:
Olson Acres
Other Goat FRIENDS: Goat's do NOT do well alone! They need to be in a small herd. (Even 2 castrated boys together are fine!) It is easier on the goat if you bring in 2 from the same place because they already know each other. Young kids can be introduced pretty easily if they don't know each other however, the older they get the longer it can take them to be friends! Introducing 2 adults can take weeks or months and sometimes they never get along. If you take a baby home alone without a friend you can expect it to scream and cry for several days to a week. It will likely jump and try to find a way to escape back to it's herd. Nature tells goats they MUST be with their herd because if they are separated they can easily be picked off by predators. More then once I have seen baby goats totally shut down and stop eating when taken home without a friend. It is possible, although not common, for a baby to die from this stress. Chickens, Cats, Dogs, Rabbits, Horses or any other animal BESIDES a goat does not make an ideal companion. They do not have the same behaviors or communicate the same way. Yes, goats can coexist with some of these animals but they do not substitute for another goats. Goats form a strong bond with their herd and have a very specific herd order. They head butt as a way of play and communication. Your chicken, cat, dog or rabbit will not appreciate being head butt or rammed when your goat is trying to "talk" or "play" with them. I have heard many stories of horses stepping on or kicking dwarf goats. (Remember your baby will be about 10lbs at 8 weeks old and around 60lbs as an adult!)
Now is when people say: "but I will be his friend." I guess you have to be around goats to fully understand how they work. A goat NEVER leaves the herd. Not even to go to work or go to the store. Goat's sleep together as a group for protection and warmth. They do just about everything together as a herd. When a goat is away from it's herd it becomes very stressed and upset. A stressed goat is at risk of a weakened immune system that can lead to many different health problems. As humans, we will never be able to be with the goat 100% of the time. A baby goat can be cute as a house pet but what about a 60lb adult with rock hard hooves that will jump on any counter, stove, table or chair? Goat's are like deer, they can jump on or over just about anything if they really want to. A goat kept inside will need access to fresh hay 24/7. Goats need to eat often to keep their rumin functioning well. They usually only sleep or rest for a few hours at at time and when left to a natural routine can be found eating at all hours of the night.
Shelter: At the very least your goat will need a 3 sided shelter. Goats are happy to spend most of the time out in the yard but they need a dry place to escape the rain, summer heat, and cold winds. Goat's who can not avoid rain will likely succumb to pneumonia. A wet goat is NOT a happy goat. Goats shelters should also be well ventilated to prevent the build up of ammonia. We put hay down in our shelters
Fencing: Goats will test any fence. A secure, strong fence is essential (yes, even for dwarf goats). If a dwarf goat really wants to they can jump a 3-4 ft fence. Goats will naturally rub on fences especially during spring and fall when they are shedding. This can weaken fences so check them often for wear and tear. Goats are also very smart. I have had goats learn to open chain link gates or jump on top of objects to get over a fence. If a goat can get it's head into something, it will try to push through it.
Trimming Hooves: Hooves should be trimmed every 4-6 weeks. Do NOT neglect hooves. We have found trimming hooves every 3-4 weeks makes the job a LOT easier. If you neglect hooves you will end up with very badly deformed hooves and a goat that has trouble walking. It is so much easier to prevent problems then try to correct them. Always check your goats hooves after a rain because mud and dirt gets trapped in there! This can lead to hoof rot. I purchased a Hoof Plane from Hoegger's Goat Supply. and it is the BEST hoof trimming tool I have found! I try to touch up hooves ever 2 weeks. This keeps the amount of time spent trimming to a minimal. If you buy a goat from my I will show you how to trim hooves.
Purchase the Hoof Plane HERE
Worming: All kids leave here already started on a deworming regime. We give a coccidia preventative at 3 & 6 weeks of age and dewormed with Valbazen at weaning. Young goats are much more susceptible to the effects of parasites, especially when under stress from weaning. We worm our adults about 2 times per year but this need varies greatly from farm to farm. What works for us may not work for you. We judge each goat by eyelid color, body condition, age, and breeding status. For stomach worms our adults wormer of choice is INJECTABLE Cydectin given ORALLY as a drench. Cydectin does NOT treat coccidia or tapeworms. For babies I prefer to deworm with Valbazen because of their small size. For Coccidia prevention on kids we use toltrazuril. I have never had to treat an adult for coccidia.
Vaccinating: All baby goats will be vaccinated with CD&T vaccine at 4 weeks and 7 weeks of age. This will seal their immunity for 1 year. They will then need a booster shot yearly. I highly recommend all goats are vaccinated with the CD&T vaccine. We have also started vaccinating our adults with the Pasturella vaccine. Kids here get their 1st boosters at 6 & 7 months old. Then yearly after that.
Hay: All goats should have access to fresh hay, no matter how much grass you have. Goats are ruminants so long fiber hay is essential to there digestion.
Here we mainly feed a good quality Coastal (Bermuda) hay to our adults. Timothy, Sudan, Johnson Grass or Haygrazer can also be offered.
Kids are started on Coastal Hay because it has a finer steam although they really like the Sudan too!
A goats digestive system is very sensitive. NEVER feed a goat hay that has gotten wet! Wet hay molds very quickly. When a goat ingests even a small amount of mold they are susceptible listeria. If not caught very quickly, listeria is fatal.
Grain: Goats are actually very picky animals with sensitive stomachs. Goats have a 4 chamber stomach called a rumin that can easily be upset by new foods. Whenever you switch foods do so gradually by mixing in the new food with their current food.
The amount and kind of grain is dependent on many things. Here, we do not feed grain to Dry (not in milk) or Open (Not Pregnant) does. A goats main diet should be high quality hay and grass. Our babies are left to grow up with their mom and will nurse on mom through her whole lactation (usually 6-10 months). We end up with really well grown yearlings when we do this.
Once a doe is bred we will slowly start introducing grain to her diet 4-6 weeks BEFORE her DUE DATE. This is when the babies really start to grow and the mom needs the extra energy for babies and milk. Feeding pregnant does grain early in pregnancy will increase the size of the kids, sometimes too much. I'm especially careful with first time moms. I slowly increase the grain ration the weeks prior to kidding so that by the time she kids she is on what I consider to be a full milking ration. We feed all of our milkers grain mix 2-3 times per day.
MILKING DOE GRAIN RATION: My personal mix for MILKING does is a mix of Sweet Dairy Goat Feed, Pelleted Dairy Goat Feed, Alfalfa Pellets, Oats, Black Oil Sunflower seeds, Calf Manna and beat pulp. Alfalfa pellets make up 50% of this mix because milking goats NEED lots of calcium. I mix this together into a large bin. Each doe is feed individually on the milk stand 1-3 times per day. Right after kidding some moms need to eat 3X per day. Later in lactation when we move to once a day milking they only eat once per day.
BUCK GRAIN RATION: Our bucks are feed a grain mix once per day during fall and winter. This is when they are in rutt, breeding most of the girls and using a lot of energy. We feed our bucks a feed mix of Medicated Goat Grain (with Ammonioum Choloride) mixed with Alfalfa pellets. I mix the grain and alfalfa pellets 50/50. During spring and summer I really decrease the amount of grain they get since they spend most of the time laying around. They rely mainly on good quality hay.
FEEDING WETHERS: Due to their higher risk of Urinary Calculi (Urine Stores) I don't recommend giving wethers grain. Their main diet should be good quality grass hay and browse. If you absoulty feel you MUST give him grain keep it in moderation! (When grass is limited grain may be necessary in cold weather.) Think about 1/2 cup per day for a grown Nigerian Dwarf. If your going to feed a grain I recommend a mix similar to what I feed my bucks. Medicated Goat Grain (with ammonium chloride) mixed with Alfalfa pellets. Remember, feed grain mix with MODERATION! Ideally you want them to get a Calcium : Phosphorus ration of 2:1. Grains are High in Phosphorus and low in calcium. Alfalfa help to increase the calcium intake.
To prevent UC offer males Ammonium Chloride daily in either their food or minerals. SEE BELOW FOR MORE INFO!
Minerals: Goats NEED minerals. I can't stress that enough! (See chart below for mineral related health issues) Without them they will slowly start to lose condition and decline in health. Fresh loose goat minerals should be available at all times. I use a brand called Sweetlix Meat Maker Loose Goat Minerals. Jupe Mills carries the sweetlix brand. If you are unable to find it most stores carry a brand called ManaPro Loose Goat minerals. This is ONLY available in a small 8lb bag. Purina also makes a loose goat mineral but I don't recommend it unless your cant find anything else. Purina brand has a LOT of salt in it meaning your goats are not getting enough of the other minerals they need. While you can offer the minerals blocks IN ADDITION to the loose minerals they are NOT a substitute for loose minerals. Goats are unable to lick enough off the block in one setting to get anywhere near the daily requirement. Goats require much larger amounts of copper then other animals. This is one thing we have struggled with on our Farm. We have found that the goats do not like the minerals if they become moist. If we have a lot of humidity in our air I put the minerals away at night. This helps to keep them fresh.
I choose to add dried Kelp powder to our goats mineral mix. You don't necessarily need it but it is a nice addition that adds important trace minerals to their diet. Our goats REALLY like it and would eat it free choice if I left it out. I add 1lb per 25lbs of goat minerals. You can purchase dried kelp for around $10 a pound on Amazon.com.
On our farm we have found that loose minerals alone are not enough. We also copper bolus our goats every 6 months, offer a selenium supplement every 3 months and offer black oil sunflower seeds (additional selenium). Every farm is different so what works for us may not work for you.
Ammonium Chloride: Female goats do not need ammonium chloride but ALL male goats should receive it. It will not hurt the females but it helps to prevent urinary stones in males. The cheapest place to buy it is Hoegger's Goat Supply. You mix it in with the food or minerals. (I mix it in with the minerals.) I have never had a problem with urinary stones in our buck but I use it to be safe. It's much cheaper then having to get a vet involved or loosing your goat. (*ALL castrated males should be receiving it as they run the highest risk of urinary stones.)
Click here for the DIRECT LINK to purchase it.
Baking Soda: Plan old baking soda that you can buy from the grocery store should be available to your goats. Goats are prone to bloat. It can come on suddenly for unknown reasons Change in food and over eating are often associated with bloat. If your goat bloats, it is an emergency! We provide baking soda free choice next to their minerals. If a goat gets an upset stomach or the ph in there rumin is off they will naturally eat it. This alone can stop bloat before it starts. .
Copper Bolus: We use a product called Copasure TWICE yearly on all of our goats. Most of Texas is deficient in copper and we find our goats really need it. Goats who are deficient in copper tend to have coarse, dry curly hair. Eventually they will develop what is called “fish tail”. This is where the fur on the tip of the tail falls out and their tail hair will appear to “split”. Darker goats (especially black goats) will start to turn a redish/rust color. This usually starts on the hind legs and slowly becomes more obvious. Severely deficient goats will eventually develop patchy fur . Copasure capsules should be opened up and given at a rate of 1 gram per 22lbs. You can OVER DOSE on copper. You must break open the bolus and weigh it out. If your goat weighs 22lbs you give 1 gram. 44Lbs you give 2 grams. And so on. The most effective way to give it is put it in a small gel capsule and give it to them in a drench. You can sprinkle it on their food but I find this less effective. When the copper rods get chewed they do not work properly.
(*SEE BELOW FOR PHOTOS OF COPPER DEFICIENCY*)
*Click HERE for a tutorial on copper bolusing*
**Click HERE for a direct link to purchase Goat Specific Copper Bolues**
Selenium: Many areas of Texas are deficient in Selenium. (Another very important mineral for goats.) We feed black oil sunflower seeds as part of our food ration to help increase the amount of selenium our goats receive. We also give our goats a dose of Bo-Se twice a year. Bo-Se is a RX med that you must get from a vet. If you don't have injectable Bo-Se you can also give a Selenium/Vit E gel every couple of months. The gel can be ordered online from Jeffers. We have not had to deal with a selenium deficiency since we started using Bo-Se.
FOR EVEN MORE GOAT CARE INFORMATION I HIGHLY RECOMMEND CHECKING OUT THIS SITE:
Olson Acres
Visible Signs of Copper Deficiency:
A SEVERELY deficient goat
|
Same goat ~ 8 months later
|
Early signs: Fish Tail
|
"Fish Tail" ~ Is usually one of the 1st signs I will see in my herd. This is where the hair on the tip of the tail starts to fall out leaving a "split" in the middle of the tail. If I fail to administer the proper dose of copper the next phase I notice is the texture of the hair. They hair along the back will start to curl and become coarse.
When you administer the Copper Bolus the effects are not instant. It can take a full season for the hair to return to normal. Your goat must shed and grow NEW hair to replace the damaged hair. |
Some resources for great information:
Fias Farms
(While the info is mainly geared towards larger dairy goats they have great information that is fitting for all goats)
http://fiascofarm.com/goats/index.htm
Onion Creek Ranch
(They are geared towards meat goats but they have TONS of great information that is fitting for all goats)
http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/articlesMain.html
Cornerstone Farm
http://www.cornerstonefarm.net/gtcareof.html
The Goat Spot
(Great forum to ask all your goat questions)
http://thegoatspot.net
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about your goat.
[email protected]
Fias Farms
(While the info is mainly geared towards larger dairy goats they have great information that is fitting for all goats)
http://fiascofarm.com/goats/index.htm
Onion Creek Ranch
(They are geared towards meat goats but they have TONS of great information that is fitting for all goats)
http://www.tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/articlesMain.html
Cornerstone Farm
http://www.cornerstonefarm.net/gtcareof.html
The Goat Spot
(Great forum to ask all your goat questions)
http://thegoatspot.net
Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about your goat.
[email protected]
