Leopard Gecko Babies
* PLEASE NOTE * These babies are growing like CRAZY!
Color changes and usually improves almost daily with growing babies.
PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AS THE BABIES GROW.
Price is determined by color, size and gender.
Eggs are incubated at 83 degrees.
This means *most* babies will be female. I'd guess about 80% or more of babies will be female.
HOWEVER - these are too young to guarantee. Gender is not guaranteed in babies.
All babies are eating mealworms very WELL out of a bowl!
LOCAL PICK UP ONLY UNTIL WINTER IS OVER!
STARTING IN MARCH OVERNIGHT USA SHIPPING IS AVAILABLE
Color changes and usually improves almost daily with growing babies.
PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AS THE BABIES GROW.
Price is determined by color, size and gender.
Eggs are incubated at 83 degrees.
This means *most* babies will be female. I'd guess about 80% or more of babies will be female.
HOWEVER - these are too young to guarantee. Gender is not guaranteed in babies.
All babies are eating mealworms very WELL out of a bowl!
LOCAL PICK UP ONLY UNTIL WINTER IS OVER!
STARTING IN MARCH OVERNIGHT USA SHIPPING IS AVAILABLE
- 23-02 - Probable Female - Tangerine Line
Possible Het. Tremper
$60
23-03 - Probable Female - Tangerine Line
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$45
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$45
23-05 - Probable Female - Tangerine Line
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$50
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$50
23-06 - Probable Female - Tangerine Line
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$100
Hatched Nov. 2023
Possible Het. Tremper
$100
Leopard Gecko Care:
Keeping Geckos Together : In general I do not recommend keeping Leopard Geckos together. Especially if you are fairly new to owning them. First off - 2 males WILL FIGHT. Males should NEVER be kept together. Females are a little more flexible BUT they do not always work out. Some females do just fine together. They work out a hierarchy and everyone lives happily. Unfortunately - it can be very hard to spot small issues before they become bigger issues. One gecko may be harassing the other when you are not around. This can leads to stress, weight loss, tail drop, bitten off toes, scars and more. I do keep a few breeding groups of females for breeding but I keep a very close eye on them. At first sign of bullying someone has to be removed. ( I have one female gecko who can just never be housed with any other female. ) Also remember accidents can happen easily. A gecko can be going for a feeder insect and accidentally grab another geckos toe, foot or tail. It is MUCH better to have one VERY happy and spoiled gecko then 2 unhappy geckos. That said I do know people who cohab 2 females with no issues ever. These geckos look amazing, have large enclosures and show no visible signs of stress. If you decide to keep 2 females together - always be prepared that one day you may have to separate them. A Male should ONLY be housed with a female if you are trying to breed them.
Tank Size : I recommend babies are started in a smaller tank for a short time. A 10 gallon sized aquarium works great for babies. I find this just makes it easier for them to find their food and settle in. However, these geckos are very curious and will spend a lot of time exploring there surroundings. For Adults, bigger really is better! While it is possible to keep one adult in a 30" long enclosure something more like 36" long by 18" wide is even better. This allows you to provide plenty of enrichment for the gecko. I am a HUGE fan of larger bioactive setups for reptiles.
Heating : Leopard Geckos are cold blooded which means they can not control there body temperature. The warm side of the enclosure should be in the low to mid 90's while the cool side should be in the low 80's. There are many different ways to achieve this depending on the enclosure type. Under tank heat pads, radiant heat panels, ceramic heat emitters, heat bulbs and more.
Lighting : Many people call Leopard Geckos Nocturnal. I believe they are better described as crepuscular. This means they are most active at dusk and dawn. Some people keep Leopard Geckos with UVB lighting and other people don't. I have been breeding and keeping Leopard Geckos on and off for over 20 years. It is my personal opinion that they don't NEED UVB lighting to be healthy. However, I do believe if you have the set up to add it , it never hurts! If I was adding it to an enclosure I would go with a lower level like a 5.0 or a 6.0 bulb. Remember UVB can not go through glass or plastic. You either need a screen lid on your enclosure or place the bulb inside the enclosure. In nature an animal that comes out at dusk and dawn would likely be exposed to low levels of UVB. If you have an animal that isn't 100% or struggling from an illness low levels of UVB may help boost there immune system.
The most important thing to remember with lighting is these animals need a normal day / night cycle. However you decide to light there enclosure (UVB,Heat, LED), I would aim for no more then 10 - 12 hours of light.
Also keep in mind Albino Animals tend to be more sensitive to bright light. Design your cage with that in mind.
Calcium and Vitamins : I am a firm believer proper Calcium, D3 and Vitamins are MUCH more important to a Leopard gecko then the UVB light. I have never seen a case of metabolic bone disease in my animals fed proper calcium / D3 even without a UVB bulb. My favorite supplement is Rapashy Calcium Plus. This not only has calcium and D3 but also has other vitamins and minerals. Another favorite is Rep-Cal with D3. This is just calcium so I do mix in a vitamin supplement as well. I usually mix it with Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins. I like to rotate things around so they get variety. Occasionally, I will substitute Vionate Vitamin and Mineral Supplement for the Herptivite. I never like to rely on just one supplement. There are 'cheaper' brands on the market but I'm only recommending what I have used myself for MANY years with success.
ALL of my Leopard Geckos have a small dish of calcium / vitamin mix available 24/7. I put feeder insects in the dish so they get dusted but I also leave the bowl in the cage. I have seen geckos just lick the powder. I believe they will take in what they need when they need it. This is especially important for egg laying females. They often need more then just what they take in on the insects.
Hide boxes - At the bare minimum your gecko should have 2 hiding places in the tank. One on the cold side and one on the warm side. You can get creative and make caves or hideaways out of branches or cork bark. You can go simple with plastic or resin hides as well.
I also recommend at least one humid hide. I tend to place my humid area somewhere in the middle of the enclosure. Putting it over the heat source may cause it to dry out too fast. Leopard Geckos can run into shedding issues if there humidity drops too low especially when in shed. You can pack this hide with moist sphagnum moss, moist coco fiber or a moist paper towel. Just remember paper towels tend to dry out fast. If you plan to try to cohab 2 females I would also recommend a 2nd hide area on the warm side of the tank in case they want to get away from each other. These geckos like to hide during the day - give them options!!
Substrate - Oh boy! This is a highly debated topic in the reptile world. As the owner you should research and do what you feel works best for you. Don't be afraid to experiment with different options. Here all of my new babies are kept on paper towels. I clean, feed, water and mist them daily so this works best for me. As they grow up paper towels become less of an ideal option. Some people will use reptile carpets so the gecko does not have the risk of impaction. Reptile carpets are WELL known to harbor bacteria. (ewww!) But I guess that could be said for any bedding that isn't cleaned properly. If you use a reptile carpet be aware some animals can get there toes hung up in the carpet or the carpet fiber can wrap around their toes causing the toe to die.
I personally have NEVER seen a Leopard Gecko with impaction but that is my personal experience only. A healthy animal can ingest small amounts of substrate without any issues. Just like in the wild! I have kept Adult Leopard Geckos on moist Cocofiber without any issues for years. It does need to be cleaned regularly like any substrate but you can easily scoop out the soiled area.
The Biodude sells a custom made mix called Terra Sahara substrate that I have used Leopard Geckos with great success . If you are doing bioactive this may be an even better option then Cocofiber. I love all of the Biodude's different substrates. It's the only thing I use for all of my bioactive tanks. It's expensive but doesn't need replaced in a bioactive setup. Did I ever mention I LOVE bioactive setups?
Another option is sand. I don't like straight sand because I feel like it is too dry to hold in any humidity. I have never used it. Do your own research and decide what's best for you. I would recommend avoiding ANY kind of Calcium sand. When I have heard about issues with impaction the animal has almost always been on a Calcium based sand. I suspect some of these animals may be eating sand to get extra calcium.. hum?
I have heard success stories with Jurassic Reptile Sand if you want to look into that.
Food: All of my babies are started on medium sized mealworms. They are fed mealworms daily. Once they reach about a month old they are eating free choice out of a dish. I leave a shallow dish of mealworms in some calcium/mineral powder. The babies take what they want when they want. I find this grows them very well.
Once the babies get to be about 2 months old I start cutting back on just mealworms and start introducing other feeder insects. This includes dubia roaches, crickets and black soldier fly larva.
By the time my babies are 3+months old I start feeding every other day.
6+ month old geckos start to really pack on fat so I cut back again to feeding about every 3 days.
Adult geckos (1 year and up) can usually be feed every 5 days or so depending on body condition. Healthy adult Leopard Geckos can get obese very easy if they are not breeding and producing eggs. Adjust your feeding according to your gecko.
Variety is the spice of life! Most gecko over 6 months old can eat Dubia Roaches, Crickets, Soldier Fly larva, Mealworms, Super Worms, Silk Worms, Horn worms and more! Always gut load your feeder insects. (This means they are well fed healthy food so the gecko gets the most benefit from the insect!)
Water: Leopard Geckos should always have a shallow water dish available. Remember stagnate water grows bacteria even if you can't see it. Change their water often. I always say - would you want to drink the water? If not - change it! Also, don't just pour fresh water in! Clean the dish! At least once a week all of my water bowls are disinfected and cleaned.
I do mist my young geckos with a spray bottle as well. I usually stop misting them by 4 - 6 months unless I see them in shed when they could use a little extra humidity.
Keeping Geckos Together : In general I do not recommend keeping Leopard Geckos together. Especially if you are fairly new to owning them. First off - 2 males WILL FIGHT. Males should NEVER be kept together. Females are a little more flexible BUT they do not always work out. Some females do just fine together. They work out a hierarchy and everyone lives happily. Unfortunately - it can be very hard to spot small issues before they become bigger issues. One gecko may be harassing the other when you are not around. This can leads to stress, weight loss, tail drop, bitten off toes, scars and more. I do keep a few breeding groups of females for breeding but I keep a very close eye on them. At first sign of bullying someone has to be removed. ( I have one female gecko who can just never be housed with any other female. ) Also remember accidents can happen easily. A gecko can be going for a feeder insect and accidentally grab another geckos toe, foot or tail. It is MUCH better to have one VERY happy and spoiled gecko then 2 unhappy geckos. That said I do know people who cohab 2 females with no issues ever. These geckos look amazing, have large enclosures and show no visible signs of stress. If you decide to keep 2 females together - always be prepared that one day you may have to separate them. A Male should ONLY be housed with a female if you are trying to breed them.
Tank Size : I recommend babies are started in a smaller tank for a short time. A 10 gallon sized aquarium works great for babies. I find this just makes it easier for them to find their food and settle in. However, these geckos are very curious and will spend a lot of time exploring there surroundings. For Adults, bigger really is better! While it is possible to keep one adult in a 30" long enclosure something more like 36" long by 18" wide is even better. This allows you to provide plenty of enrichment for the gecko. I am a HUGE fan of larger bioactive setups for reptiles.
Heating : Leopard Geckos are cold blooded which means they can not control there body temperature. The warm side of the enclosure should be in the low to mid 90's while the cool side should be in the low 80's. There are many different ways to achieve this depending on the enclosure type. Under tank heat pads, radiant heat panels, ceramic heat emitters, heat bulbs and more.
Lighting : Many people call Leopard Geckos Nocturnal. I believe they are better described as crepuscular. This means they are most active at dusk and dawn. Some people keep Leopard Geckos with UVB lighting and other people don't. I have been breeding and keeping Leopard Geckos on and off for over 20 years. It is my personal opinion that they don't NEED UVB lighting to be healthy. However, I do believe if you have the set up to add it , it never hurts! If I was adding it to an enclosure I would go with a lower level like a 5.0 or a 6.0 bulb. Remember UVB can not go through glass or plastic. You either need a screen lid on your enclosure or place the bulb inside the enclosure. In nature an animal that comes out at dusk and dawn would likely be exposed to low levels of UVB. If you have an animal that isn't 100% or struggling from an illness low levels of UVB may help boost there immune system.
The most important thing to remember with lighting is these animals need a normal day / night cycle. However you decide to light there enclosure (UVB,Heat, LED), I would aim for no more then 10 - 12 hours of light.
Also keep in mind Albino Animals tend to be more sensitive to bright light. Design your cage with that in mind.
Calcium and Vitamins : I am a firm believer proper Calcium, D3 and Vitamins are MUCH more important to a Leopard gecko then the UVB light. I have never seen a case of metabolic bone disease in my animals fed proper calcium / D3 even without a UVB bulb. My favorite supplement is Rapashy Calcium Plus. This not only has calcium and D3 but also has other vitamins and minerals. Another favorite is Rep-Cal with D3. This is just calcium so I do mix in a vitamin supplement as well. I usually mix it with Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins. I like to rotate things around so they get variety. Occasionally, I will substitute Vionate Vitamin and Mineral Supplement for the Herptivite. I never like to rely on just one supplement. There are 'cheaper' brands on the market but I'm only recommending what I have used myself for MANY years with success.
ALL of my Leopard Geckos have a small dish of calcium / vitamin mix available 24/7. I put feeder insects in the dish so they get dusted but I also leave the bowl in the cage. I have seen geckos just lick the powder. I believe they will take in what they need when they need it. This is especially important for egg laying females. They often need more then just what they take in on the insects.
Hide boxes - At the bare minimum your gecko should have 2 hiding places in the tank. One on the cold side and one on the warm side. You can get creative and make caves or hideaways out of branches or cork bark. You can go simple with plastic or resin hides as well.
I also recommend at least one humid hide. I tend to place my humid area somewhere in the middle of the enclosure. Putting it over the heat source may cause it to dry out too fast. Leopard Geckos can run into shedding issues if there humidity drops too low especially when in shed. You can pack this hide with moist sphagnum moss, moist coco fiber or a moist paper towel. Just remember paper towels tend to dry out fast. If you plan to try to cohab 2 females I would also recommend a 2nd hide area on the warm side of the tank in case they want to get away from each other. These geckos like to hide during the day - give them options!!
Substrate - Oh boy! This is a highly debated topic in the reptile world. As the owner you should research and do what you feel works best for you. Don't be afraid to experiment with different options. Here all of my new babies are kept on paper towels. I clean, feed, water and mist them daily so this works best for me. As they grow up paper towels become less of an ideal option. Some people will use reptile carpets so the gecko does not have the risk of impaction. Reptile carpets are WELL known to harbor bacteria. (ewww!) But I guess that could be said for any bedding that isn't cleaned properly. If you use a reptile carpet be aware some animals can get there toes hung up in the carpet or the carpet fiber can wrap around their toes causing the toe to die.
I personally have NEVER seen a Leopard Gecko with impaction but that is my personal experience only. A healthy animal can ingest small amounts of substrate without any issues. Just like in the wild! I have kept Adult Leopard Geckos on moist Cocofiber without any issues for years. It does need to be cleaned regularly like any substrate but you can easily scoop out the soiled area.
The Biodude sells a custom made mix called Terra Sahara substrate that I have used Leopard Geckos with great success . If you are doing bioactive this may be an even better option then Cocofiber. I love all of the Biodude's different substrates. It's the only thing I use for all of my bioactive tanks. It's expensive but doesn't need replaced in a bioactive setup. Did I ever mention I LOVE bioactive setups?
Another option is sand. I don't like straight sand because I feel like it is too dry to hold in any humidity. I have never used it. Do your own research and decide what's best for you. I would recommend avoiding ANY kind of Calcium sand. When I have heard about issues with impaction the animal has almost always been on a Calcium based sand. I suspect some of these animals may be eating sand to get extra calcium.. hum?
I have heard success stories with Jurassic Reptile Sand if you want to look into that.
Food: All of my babies are started on medium sized mealworms. They are fed mealworms daily. Once they reach about a month old they are eating free choice out of a dish. I leave a shallow dish of mealworms in some calcium/mineral powder. The babies take what they want when they want. I find this grows them very well.
Once the babies get to be about 2 months old I start cutting back on just mealworms and start introducing other feeder insects. This includes dubia roaches, crickets and black soldier fly larva.
By the time my babies are 3+months old I start feeding every other day.
6+ month old geckos start to really pack on fat so I cut back again to feeding about every 3 days.
Adult geckos (1 year and up) can usually be feed every 5 days or so depending on body condition. Healthy adult Leopard Geckos can get obese very easy if they are not breeding and producing eggs. Adjust your feeding according to your gecko.
Variety is the spice of life! Most gecko over 6 months old can eat Dubia Roaches, Crickets, Soldier Fly larva, Mealworms, Super Worms, Silk Worms, Horn worms and more! Always gut load your feeder insects. (This means they are well fed healthy food so the gecko gets the most benefit from the insect!)
Water: Leopard Geckos should always have a shallow water dish available. Remember stagnate water grows bacteria even if you can't see it. Change their water often. I always say - would you want to drink the water? If not - change it! Also, don't just pour fresh water in! Clean the dish! At least once a week all of my water bowls are disinfected and cleaned.
I do mist my young geckos with a spray bottle as well. I usually stop misting them by 4 - 6 months unless I see them in shed when they could use a little extra humidity.
